I take the drive to the beach to go surfing at every opportunity. I work four days per week to have three days off together to spend more time surfing. I want to move closer to the water to have the ocean just outside my door. I have no idea why I like surfing so much. I even compete at it when I can. It knocks me around to the point I make regular visits to a Sacramento chiropractor where I live, but I keep going back to have the waves pound on me again.
Contrary to popular thought, water is hard. It cannot be compressed. It will flow around you, but when it hits you, it hits hard. I have been body slammed into the surf so hard it knocked the wind out of me and felt like I was hit by a moving vehicle. Well, I guess I was, but the moving vehicle was tons of water in the form of waves. When all goes good, it looks like I am in command of the wave out there in the surf. However, the wave is really in command of me. I am just riding along with it hoping to anticipate its next move.
I come back sore and beat up sometimes. My chiropractor keeps asking me why I abuse myself. I can only reply that I must like it. Then I get an adjustment to line my back up again for the next round of pummeling by the waves. As the years have gone by I have gotten a lot better at staying on the board rather than getting tossed by the waves. However, there are some conditions that make wipeouts a lot more likely even for someone at my skill level. When I get hit by a particularly tough wave, I start to think how I can squeeze in a chiropractic appointment before I go back to work as I walk out of the water onto the beach.