I take the drive to the beach to go surfing at every opportunity. I work four days per week to have three days off together to spend more time surfing. I want to move closer to the water to have the ocean just outside my door. I have no idea why I like surfing so much. I even compete at it when I can. It knocks me around to the point I make regular visits to a Sacramento chiropractor where I live, but I keep going back to have the waves pound on me again.
Contrary to popular thought, water is hard. It cannot be compressed. It will flow around you, but when it hits you, it hits hard. I have been body slammed into the surf so hard it knocked the wind out of me and felt like I was hit by a moving vehicle. Well, I guess I was, but the moving vehicle was tons of water in the form of waves. Continue reading